Where to eat in Fort Kochi.

Poolside dinner tracing the old Dutch spice route from Cochin to Bali

Candle-lit Kerala seafood on a stone jetty right over the harbour water

A small heritage-street bar-restaurant pairing cold beer with Kerala-spiced plates

Busy little spot for Kerala banana-leaf fish, steps from Santa Cruz Basilica

Waterside lunch behind a vast antiques warehouse, with ginger in almost every dish

Candle-lit heritage dinner at the harbour mouth, cooking from Fort Kochi's communities

Waterside tables on the harbour channel, cold beer and Kerala seafood as ships glide past

Poolside Kerala seafood and a proper bar inside a colonial heritage hotel

Fort Kochi's original art café: all-day breakfast and cake in a gallery courtyard

Mattancherry's biryani institution since 1948 — come early, it sells out

Playful modern Kerala plates in an art-filled Dutch bungalow on the Parade Ground

Upstairs window seats over Fort Kochi's busiest heritage junction

Candle-lit poolside courtyard dinners in a Relais & Châteaux heritage boutique hotel

Budget seafood with harbour views right by the Fort Kochi ferry jetty

Family kitchen near Santa Cruz famed for fish molee and hands-on Kerala cooking classes

Coffee and grills inside a centuries-old spice warehouse facing the synagogue

Seafood by candlelight in the garden of a 300-year-old harbourfront mansion

Wood-fired pizza and bakes in a restored Dutch-era bungalow by the Parade Ground

Relaxed courtyard café for long breakfasts, pasta and banoffee pie

Cheap, fast pure-veg dosas and thalis a short walk from Mattancherry Palace

Seafood-led all-day dining inside No.18 Hotel, a short walk from the bus terminal

A long-running upstairs Italian spot for thin-crust pizza and homemade pasta